The King and I

‘500 people crossed the border into Kargil and we went to war, but when 10 lakh Bangladeshis come into the North East we call it assimilation. There are days when I want to leave all this, will everything to my mother, pick up a gun and head to the jungle.’

Bordering Bangladesh, engulfed by ‘immigrants’, in a forgotten corner of the North East resides the oldest unbroken hereditary monarchy of the country, Tripura. I sipped Darjeeling tea as the passionate King, Pradyot Bikram Manikya DebBurman, opened my eyes to the ‘Tripura Situation’.

The Tripura Situation

(As explained by Mr. DebBurman)

After voluntarily acceding to the Indian state, Tripura has become a victim of the porous Indo – Bangladesh border. Years of illegal cross border migration, politics of assimilation and an ‘alien’ Bengali government, have left the indigenous tribals of Tripura a minority in their home land (roughly 30%). Numerically unable to capture power from the now indigenised, migrant Bengali (Bangladeshi) population (70%), the tribals have been economically isolated.

‘When I go through the streets, they (Bengali population) wave to me, seemingly show their respect, but I feel their hate, it comes out of their pores. To be looked at as an inferior, hated in my own Kingdom because I am a tribal King, angers me.’

It is this tribal anger, fuelled by economic backwardness, lack of ‘tribal’ opportunities and a sense of alienation from their political ‘representatives’( a Bengali dominated State Government) that has resulted in the ongoing underground movement.

Sitting in Delhi I was aware of the porous Indo – Bangladesh border and the growing illegal immigrant population, disconnected I thought, big deal. Living sheltered in a city of migrants, I never gave it much thought but as Pradyot spoke I was reminded of this fear psychosis I have encountered during my North East trip. A fear of outsiders has gripped this region. Tripura, where the indigenous are the minority, is the feared future. When the idea of home is violated, rationality becomes a luxury and ‘the outsider’, the non - indigenous become the enemy.

Why has the ‘pro – tribal’ movement turned into an independence struggle?

‘See what you need to understand is that the Tribal people of Tripura don’t hate Indians. They bear a resentment towards the Bangladeshis immigrants, but these immigrants are given citizenship and are now ‘officially’ Indians. So their anger gets misplaced, immigrants are confused for indigenous Indians.’

I understand the anger you must feel, made to feel like an outsider at home, but do you feel there is a workable solution?

‘The future lies in inclusive development, development of all without patronising any community. Today it’s not possible to get rid of the Bengali population, you have to work with them, build a joint tribal, non – tribal future. The first generation of immigrants wanted land, the second generation wanted jobs, but today’s generation wants more. They want cinemas, night clubs -development. If your car has a flat tyre you change it, but today they (State Government of Tripura) say, let the other three tyres carry the weight. You can’t have that, can you?’

You talk of development, but what I have noticed in the North East is that there is no private sector. The main source of youth employment, the Government, is the now saturated. Where is the development?

‘There is a class here in the North East, within our own communities, which is successful because they are the intermediaries between GOI and the people here. This creamy layer, directly benefits from keeping things the way they are.’

‘For development private entrepreneurship is important, tourism can play a big role. You don’t have to be in a big town, you can be in Cherrapunjee and develop Cherrapunjee. The BPO industry can be big in the North East. I think 60% of the BPO industry outside consists of students from the North East. They are working for seven thousand Rupees in Delhi, Bombay, in a Metro that’s nothing. You give them six, seven thousand rupees here they will be much happier. But how will you have a BPO industry when the BSNL connection breaks every 10 minutes? How will you have a boom in tourism when the infrastructure is poor?’

‘The truth is nobody is listening to the people and as long as no body is listening to the people you will have a problem. Nobody listened to Jessica Lal’s case, or the Arushi’s case, but then the media heard them and it became a movement.’ Echoing a sense of ‘media betrayal’ common in Nagaland, Arunachal and Meghalaya, emotionally charged Pradyot explained, ‘Here even the media is not there, the main stream media is just not interest (in the North East).’

This media betrayal is real. A boy fallen in a well becomes a ‘heart warming’ breaking news story flashed across our TV screens for days, but when it comes to TRPS the North East just doesn’t sell. An integral part of our nation was blockaded for over two months, but Dhoni’s secret marriage had more on ground coverage. Channels opt to have one token North East correspondent. One report based in Guwahati to report on 8 states of the North East.

But in the spirit of ‘God helps those who help themselves’, I asked,

I agree with what you’re saying, I came across the same sentiment in Nagaland. But every five years you elect your representatives; you can’t just abdicate the blame and point fingers.

With a knowing smile Pradyot explained. ‘I know yaar, we don’t elect a Government, we don’t have an option. As a politician, five years ago, I would say exactly what you saying – “You have a choice”, but its a piece of paper I gave you and tell you “Now you have the power to choose your future” and every five years I come back and say “now choose your future”. Who do you choose, are you deciding who will be a candidate. Tickets are bought.’

Interrupting rhetoric I had heard many times, with a slight air of arrogance I said,

I agree there is a lot of corruption, but as a government you can’t function if there is popular discontent...

Returning the favour, Pradyot cut me short.

‘But there is popular discontent and there will be more popular discontent in the years to come until you don’t bring in effective development. This popular discontent is causing the government to fall every four months. Meghalaya has had 39 Chief Ministers since it became a state in 1972. Each option is as bad as the last.’

Political corruption, creamy layer exploitation, economic backwardness this is the common story of India, excuses we give ourselves to fail. Is there a solution?

‘As a King, my people have given me a lot. Everything stems from them. I don’t want to me just another Maharaja, Mooch upar kar ke, polo khelne nikle. I feel for my people, I want to better their lives and I will do it, but I will do it my way. Unfortunately I can’t do it alone but I have always believed that the youth needs to step up, take responsibility and enter politics. I have a team of young people working with me, we will changes things.’

Relived to hear hope escape the Kings lips, I posed to two questions, how do you expect to get power in Tripura, when tribals are in a 70 – 30 numerical minority, how will you get the numbers. Also could you elaborate on what you mean by ‘your way’?

‘My way, is the youth taking responsibility for themselves, the future rest on the youth. As for getting power, I will simply talk development. As I mentioned before this third generation of Bengali ‘immigrants’ wants more, I will give them that. I will develop tourism, hotels, create jobs. Bring in the BPO industry, invest in power generation, education. Why should we only trade with the mainland (India), I will open up traditional trade routes with Bangladesh and Burma. The future lies in economics.’

‘I am young and therefore emotional and uncompromising on my ideals. There are days when I want to leave all this, will everything to my mother, pick up a gun and head to the jungle. Maybe time will ease my passion, but for now I will not compromise. The sad fact is the government of India takes the North East as a strategic part of the country, strategic not integral.’

The Original Underground - Part 1

‘AIR announced, both sides had suffered three hundred casualties’, he paused and smiled, ‘it was then I knew that the Indian army had suffered heavy losses’, he chuckled, ‘we were only a group of 60 Nagas surrounded by 2000 Indian soldiers.’ His smiled faded.

‘If Muivah had made it back from China, the situation in Nagaland would be very different today.’

As Lt. General Thinoselie M. Keyho, of the Naga National Council (NNC), shared his experiences with me I noticed an uncanny similarity between the General and my grandfather. Here I sat with the ‘enemy’, a Lt General of the NNC (the first Naga ‘underground’ group) but his mannerism, his sense of dressing, the grey cardigan, his style of speaking took me to the image of my grandfather; a sword of honour and a highly distinguished Lt. General from the Indian army. Amused and lost in a sense of realisation, I asked:

What made you join the NNC?

‘I was asked the same question in Delhi’

Being from Delhi I asked; Oh, so you were in Delhi. Did you like it? My attempt to build bridges wasn’t very successful.

‘Yes, I spent 4 years in Delhi’, he laughed ‘all of them in Thihar, I didn’t get to see much else. I was a political prisoner in the ‘70’s.’

Sensing my discomfort, he continued.

‘I was interrogated in Delhi Cant, they asked me the same question:

- “Why did you join the underground?”

- “Who misguided you?”

‘I have lived through what the government of India has done to the Nagas. I have seen it with my own eyes, heard it with my own ears.’

‘The Assam Rifles came to our village, they killed two Gao Bura’s (GB – Village Leaders), they hog tied them and displayed them in the village square. The troop leader mocked them, as they lay there, dead, tied to a bamboo, he told us we would suffer the same fate.’

‘We weren’t scared, we weren’t criminals, we aren’t monkeys, instead of discouraging us it angered us. We are tribal’s, we had to avenge their deaths, so we joint the movement.’

‘If violence begets violence, it was started by the Government of India. They started with the ballot war, but when it failed (first national elections were boycotted by the Nagas), GOI started the bullet war.’

Kaka Iralu, the custodian of Naga history, explained this recurring trend of ‘anger over fear’ to me. It stems from the strong sense of tribal identity prevalent amongst the Naga’s. A Naga is never alone, their motto could very aptly be “all for one and one for all”. ‘We know our obligation, our duty to the tribe. If a Naga is killed by an outsider, ‘it is our duty to avenge his death.’ Maybe if the Indian forces were aware of this tribal mindset, they would not have perused the path of ‘fear through example’.

How did the Naga People’s Movement begin?

‘Nagas have a strange history, we have been described as naked backward head hunters. We were head hunters, there is proof of that, and until very recently (1966 Mon district) we were naked, but backward I don’t think so.’

He stops, smiles, takes a sip of tea and continues.

‘I would argue with Phizo that though we couldn’t read and write, we weren’t backward because we as Naga’s realised that we were independent and fought for our freedom. Though our neighbours the Khasis and Manipuri’s were more educated then us, they were less politically aware. Our demand for freedom began well before India’s independence in 1947.’

A brief over view of the origin of Naga People’s Movement

Inspired by the nationalistic fervour of Europe, the Naga workers returned from France and in 1918 took the first steps to create a unified Naga identity, the Naga Club. The ball was rolling, work was on to create a greater Naga identity, develop a feeling of oneness amongst the tribes. As time progressed, the Naga Club gave way to the Naga National Council and the internal process of unification to an external demand for freedom. Sighting religion, race, traditions, customs and language as irreconcilable difference with India, they demanded that the British do justice by them. Logic being, pre – British, they were independent, the British conquered and ruled them directly, therefore post British they should be left as they were, independent.

I have heard the NNC received training and support from the Chinese, is that true?

‘If you want peace prepare for war. The government of India used ‘peace talks’ (GOI offered general amnesty 1957-58) to buy time to close in on us, but before they did, we went to China (1967-68).’

Previously to expand the Naga movement from a political to a military domain, the NNC had reached out to Pakistan. They ventured across the border and received arms and ‘action’ training in East Pakistan, 1963-64.

‘General Mo (President FGN) and I suggested that we send our boys to China. May be since I suggested it I was asked to go. We set off with old maps, a compass and just our faith in God, that we would reach China.’

How did you go to China?

‘People still wonder how we went, they ask, was it by car, bike, plane, train? How do you think we went?’

Not sure if it was a rhetorical question, I remained silent with an expression of frozen ‘intelligence’.

‘We walked, moving from village to village through Burma. Villages on the map weren’t on ground, those on ground weren’t in the map. Hunted by the Indian and Burmese army we posed as a Peace mission. We received food, shelter and support from the locals. It was when we reached the Hokang valley in Burma that the Kachin Independence Army (KIA) took us under their wing and guided us to China.’

Oblivious to the Chinese, Th. Muivah, Lt. Gen. Keyho and over a hundred soldiers of the Naga Army walked towards China. With their faith in God and the belief that with China’s help they could militarily defeat the Indian Army, they walked.

To be continued...

Don’t Blame Us, Blame Manipur

‘If they can have a blockade, so can we, no vehicle with Manipuri registration will enter Naga areas, none of the Naga areas.’

Before I embarked on the North East leg of my journey, Nagaland was in the news for all the wrong reasons. News channels gave us the ‘facts’,

Fact One: ‘The Naga’s have imposed a crippling economic blockade on Manipur’

Fact Two: ‘The blockade has been carried out by Mr. Muivah supporters, in response to him being denied entry into Manipur.’

Fact Three: ‘Manipur is suffering under the huge price rise caused by this Naga blockade.’

There is an undeniable truth to these ‘facts’, but as I have realised there are always multiple truths and co-existing facts. I sat in the Naga Student Federation’s (NSF) office in Kohima, armed with these ‘media facts’, as Mr. Mutsikhoyo Yhobo, president NSF, explained the Naga version of the Manipur blockade.

Pointing to the board of Presidents pre-dating 1947, Mutsikhoyo explained,

‘The Naga Students Federation is one of the oldest civil societies in Nagaland. It pre dates both the NNC and NSCN. The aim of NSF was to bring all the Nagas under one administrative group, irrespective of their state or country of residence. Our traditional jurisdiction covers all Naga areas within India (Nagaland, Manipur, Assam, and Arunachal) and Burma. Even today our mandate applies to these areas.’

You can imagine the ego clashes and turf wars created by Naga civil societies claiming their historical jurisdiction in Manipur. Technically between two states of one nation, a little jurisdictional spill over shouldn’t matter. If only it was that simple.

The Blockade

‘As I mentioned before, the jurisdiction of NSF stretches into the Naga Hills of Manipur. We have previously held many functions, meetings and forums in these Naga areas without incident. There has never been a problem in the past.’

I furiously scribbled into my notepad as Mr Yhobo, explained the events leading up to the ‘Naga Manipur Blockade.’

‘We wanted to hold our Third Federal Assembly in Senapati District of Manipur in early May. In April itself we informed our local leadership to organise the formalities and a month later, on May 3^rd we set off towards Mao Gate.’

Mao Gate is the border crossing between Manipur and Nagaland on National Highway 39. It would play a central role in the Naga – Manipur stand off over the next two months.

Stopped by armed Manipuri security forces at Mao Gate, the NSF leaders questioned the IGP present.

‘We asked him why we were not allowed to enter Manipur. Without clarifying or offering us any real reason, all he said was “It is an order from higher up, Naga’s are not allowed.” To ensure we could not proceed, the security forces had blocked the highway with big boulders. They started the blockade, they blocked the highway first.’

Insulted and infuriated the NSF contingent headed back to Kohima headquarters to hold a meeting with higher leadership. This meeting resulted in an ultimatum served to the Manipur CM.

‘Withdraw Manipur Rifles and Commandos from all Naga areas within twenty four hours’, expiring, 4^th May, 6 p.m.

Failing which,

‘If they can have a blockade, so can we, no vehicle with Manipuri registration will enter Naga areas, none of the Naga areas, but let me clarify. This blockade was not an economic blockade, but it was an agitation to show our resentment to the Manipur government.’

I threw in a question; The Delhi media has been reporting that the blockade was put in place by Mr Muivah’s supporters in response to him being denied entry into Manipur, is that so?

‘We launched our movement independently. At that time we were unaware of Mr. Muivah’s movements towards Somdal. In fact even before he reached Kohima on the 6^th we had launched our agitation.’

But Mr. Mutsikhoyo, the media reports stated that the Manipuri forces opened fire on Muivah’s supports protesting at Mao Gate?

‘That’s not true, the local Mao community started a peaceful protest against the Manipuri Security Forces blockade of Highway 39. Without any provocation the security forces opened fire on the procession. Two students we killed, over a hundred were injured and the Mao community was displaced due to harassment by the security forces. This blockade was created by Manipur.’

I understand that your blockade was an agitation, a show of resentment, but what about the Manipuri people who suffered from the price rise?

‘The Meiti community is using the media against us. There is an influential Meiti women’s organisation, Meira Pabi, they forcibly closed down the grocery shops and petrol pumps. This led to the shortages, not the blockade. They used the media to put the blame on the Nagas.’

Seemingly relinquishing all blame, the NFS President continued.

‘The Meiti community had ordered a quit notice to the Hindi speaking population residing in Manipur. They had ordered these non – locals to move out by the 31^st of May and then denied them transport to leave. If the Meiti community can not coexist with Hindu, Hindi speaking people, (since the Meiti’s are Hindu) how will they mix with Christian Naga tribals?’

He paused and looked at his ringing phone. I used the opportunity to ask a question. You recently visited Delhi, you held a press conference (the press conference was given 2 minutes of air time by main stream media) and spoke to central ministers, could you elaborate?

‘The Meiti’s had been using the main stream media to their advantage, we were being made into villains. We wanted to get our voice heard.’

‘We first met the Home Minister, he told us’

“I been aware of the of the Naga issue since my school days, today I am a national leader and the issue continues unresolved. I do not want to pass it on to another political generation. The UPA and I are sincere in our efforts.”

The Home Minister continued.

“To block a national highway for a day or two, to make a point, is understandable. But for months, that’s not correct. The highway does not belong to anyone, even if it passes through your state you do not have the right to block it. You should feel happy that you have a national highway connecting your state, other states do not have this privilege. You must end your blockade.”

‘We told the Home Minister, that we could only call off the blockade once we returned to Nagaland. We told him, the sooner we meet the Prime Minister and other leaders, the sooner we can go back and decided on the blockade. Though not officially, it was the Home Minister who expedited our meeting with the Prime Minster.’

‘The Prime Minster told us, the Government is like a parent,

“We do not want our children to fight, even if one child wants to leave the family. The Naga issue is very sensitive, we can’t solve it immediately. We need to make your neighbours understand the situation, until they understand, the problem will continue.”

‘Even the PM said he wished to find a solution during this UPA term. He wanted to work closely with Naga student and youth leaders to find an honourable solution.

What issues did you put forward to the Government?

‘There were three main issues that we discussed with the Government.

- Until the Indo – Naga political issue is resolved, the crisis will continue and things will remain on edge. If it is solved, 70% of the North East issues will be resolved (It is well known that majority of the secessionist movements in the North East receive material, training and ideological support from the Naga underground).

- We discussed our goal of bring all Nagas under one administrative group.

- We discussed the Autonomous District Council Act had how it would lead to the oppression of Nagas and Naga culture in Manipur. We stressed that decisions should be taken with the consent of the people.’

Having interacted with the central government, what do you think the future holds for Nagaland?

‘From my interaction with national leaders, the leader of opposition and youth leaders like Rahul Gandhi, I have seen the government’s attitude and sincerity. I’m hopeful that some positive changes will come through this UPA government.

What about independence?

‘Independence’ he smiles ‘we are not part of the peace talks and it is not in the NSF jurisdiction to discuss or voice demands for Independence’, he leaves it at that.

It seems that only drastic measures like a blockade will make ‘main land’ India take notice of the North East. I’m not trying to point a finger at the centre, which is fighting to integrate the North East. The blame lies on millions of ignorant Indians.

Development, jobs and peace are the need of the hour, but voiced or held in silence, independence, is close to Naga hearts.

‘God is the only Naga Weapon’

‘They say, there is no bad peace or a good war, but here in Nagaland we are faced with a bad peace. The ceasefire has been in effect for almost a decade but people are still dying. This divide and rule needs to stop.’ I drank water as the passionate Hukheli T. Wotsa, President of the Naga Women’s Hoho a women organisation based in Dimapur, explained her stand to me. ‘Dimapur is a war zone’, she proclaimed, the centre might have signed a ceasefire but factional rivalry between the NSCN (IM) and NSCN (K) has found expression in gun battles around town.

‘Who is effected the most? Who is suffering? Fathers, husbands, brothers, uncles, sons all die for the cause, martyred in factional clashes.’ Widowed, disempowered and alone ‘the Naga women are crying in silence’. They bare the burden of this war.

Sitting in her living room, I took a sip of Frooti and used her pause to throw in a question;

What are the activities taken up by the Naga Women’s Hoho?

‘We fight for the upliftment of the Naga women. We fight for the raped, we fight against domestic violence, extortion and kidnapping. We are trying to create equal opportunities for Naga women, but one of our main goals is to work towards reconciliation of the Naga factions. We are trying to rid Nagaland of rigid tribal identities and foster a larger Naga identity. I have gone to Bangkok to meet Mr. Muivah, to the Burma border to talk to NSCN (K). As long as there is violence the women will suffer. ‘

‘Women walked into the battle fields, we cried and pleaded with them to stop the violence. Women have played a big role in reducing violence in Nagaland. We are working towards Naga reconciliation.’

To stray slightly from the point, I recently learnt that, ‘resolution of the Naga issues’ has two meanings. Namely - resolution in a 'mainland Indian' sense refers to Nagaland and the Indian state and then there is reconciliation of Naga underground factions (NSCN (IM), NSCN (K), NNC, the 3 factions of FGN). It is popularly believed that any solution with the central government is only possible once the warring Naga factions reconcile.

I was confused. I am well aware of how the patriarchal societies of India function. But during my time in Shillong, I saw how empowered the Khasi women are in their matri-lineal society and the North Eastern women I had met in Delhi, including the Naga women, were confident, strong and independent. With a perplexed expression on my face I asked;

Are the women oppressed in Naga society?

‘Yes they are. Girls aren’t given an equal opportunity to education. If there is a brother and sister and the sister gets a first division and her brother only manages a third division, the parents will still push their son. Send him to Delhi to study and not their daughter. We have been using the Church congregations as a platform for preaching equality for women and there has been a distinct improvement in recent years, but there is still a long way to go.’

‘Women are not able to enter politics, they lack the money power needed to fight elections. Husbands and sons, will sell their land, homes, cars, everything to enter politics but women don’t have the right to do so. Reservation for women in politics is a must. Women must be brought into the peace process.’

What role can women play in the peace process?

‘Historically women have always played a big role in peoples movements; we had Annie Besant working for the cause of the Indian people. But I feel women leaders in India do not feel for the Naga people. Ms. Maneka Gandhi is worried about dogs and animals, but does she hear the cries of the Naga women, does she sense our misery? I would request Ms. Sonia Gandhi and Ms. Pratibha Patil to recognise that the Naga women are suffering in silence.’

If the centre takes more interest, will centrally aided development resolve the ‘insurgency’?

‘No, economic packages won’t resolve the situation, it will only cause greater divisions in society. The aid money from the centre doesn’t reach its targets. It disappears.’ She laughs and says, ‘Corruption in Nagaland is like a ghost, no one sees it, no one can catch it, but it haunts everyone. Honesty is needed.’

Will women in politics make a difference when it comes to corruption?

‘I am not saying that women aren’t corrupt. Corruption is natural, it exists every where. It exists in the Indian government systems as well. It is honesty that is rare, but I feel women are less corrupt then men.

Do you think a compromise solution is possible between the Indian government and Nagaland - autonomy?

‘Autonomy is not an option. We must have greater Nagaland, we must be liberated. India can not deny the Naga’s their birth right. Too much blood has been spilt, if the India denies the Naga’s their right, they will suffer the wrath of god.’

‘Our prayers and blood have reached god, god is the only Naga weapon.’

Seeing me raise my eyebrows, she clarified.

‘We feel for India, if India loses to Pakistan in cricket we feel bad. When Indira Gandhi and Rajiv Gandhi were assassinated I cried. When I saw the coffin of Indian soldier being transported, I felt his mother’s pain, his wife’s pain, I thought of his children waiting for a father, who had gone out to make money, but will never come home’.

‘Gandhi sympathised with the Naga cause, he said he would stand in front of his Naga brothers and take the first bullet. Today India feels no compassion for the Naga's. We weren’t born into Indian, we are adopted (Nagaland was made an Indian state only in 1964), maybe that is why they don’t feel for us. As a man can’t become a woman, a Naga can not become an Indian, we are different.’

As I waited for an auto, many thoughts crossed my mind. Want makes a nation? Territorial continuity, commonality of history, cultural similarity or a blue passport with three lions on it? Can’t I be born an American but choose to be an Indian? It seems strange that in a globalised world, where the significance of borders is said to be shrinking, our sense of identity is still bound to a community, a nation. Am I still Avalok with out being an Indian? Just then a group of girls returning from school crossed the road, there is hope. Educational empowerment is the first step towards economic and social empowerment of women. With time and continued efforts of women like Mrs. Wotsa, soon women will 'share the pants'.